Russian Typhoon Submarine

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Part 1b - Getting things organized


The stand for the motors and electronics was made from a 6½" square piece of Celtec. The motor mounts were made from a 1½" piece of aluminum cut to a length of 2¼". They were installed between the motors and gearboxes using the gearbox mounting screws and then bolted to the Celtec board using stainless steel bolts and nuts.

As you can see, the bolts are long enough to raise the Celtec board about 3/8 of an inch. If I do experience a water leak in the watertight compartment, hopefully the water will gravitate downwards to be picked up and expelled by a bilge pump I"ll install later on. Also to be installed on this board will be a servo motor for controlling the rudders and another servo motor to control the stern planes.
The On/Off switch mount was made from a ½" piece of brass cut to a length of 4½". I then shaped it into a square and drilled and filed the square holes to allow for the switch actuators. The entire unit was then screwed onto the common pole terminal block.

As you can see, the common pole terminal block was also bolted to the Celtec in between the speed controllers. I actually attached the controllers to the terminal block first by using a strip of duck tape on the bottom which you cannot see. I elected to us a terminal block here for several reasons:
  • I didn't want a bunch of wires just dangling around inside the watertight compartment;
  • I didn't want a bunch of wire quick-connects;
  • I wanted ample terminals for future expansion (bilge pump, water cooling pump, etc.);
  • I wanted common positive and negative terminals from the battery;
  • I wanted to do it MY WAY!
Here, I have temporarily placed them inside my shrouds, and I can now safely begin fine shaping them. I had been waiting on this step to make sure the propellers fit inside.
The threads on my propeller shafts were about 3/8 of an inch too long so I used my Dremel® cutting tool to cut them off. Here, you can see the propellers fit almost snug against the brass stuffing boxes after reducing the thread length.

Next Step - Part 2 - The beginnings of the watertight container.


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Copyright © 2003 - 2008 John T. VanderHeiden
Last Updated Monday, February 24, 2003 1:41:15 AM